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Basic sewing skill is all you need to make yourself some curtains and save some money. You will achieve good results by following a few simple rules. Accurate measuring and careful cutting is the secret, so take your time use a good steel ruler or metal tape. Remember this saying, ‘Measure twice, cut once’.

Before you start, decide on the finished length of the curtains and the style for the heading. Always measure the window with the track or pole in position and check the width at the top and bottom of the window to make sure its square. Always measure each window you are making curtains for, don’t guess they are the same.

If you are making lining for the curtains they must both be the same size. Watch out for fabrics that might shrink after washing. Add 1ocm per metre to allow for shrinkage.

When you are cutting out, work on a large flat surface a large table or even the floor is ideal.

To position the fabric lay the fabric flat and check the direction of the pattern, if any. If the fabric is patterned position so that pattern will match on the different lengths. Make sure the end of the fabric is perfectly straight. To do this, pull out a thread across the width to make a guide for your cutting line. Measure and cut the first length. To cut the next piece, place the first cut length against the uncut fabric and match the design across.

Fold seams and hems to match and sew around the edges. You’re off to a great start.

Happy Sewing:)

• If sewing denim or similar fabric hold pieces together with spring type clothes pegs.
• If using a machine to sew foam, rub soap along the sewing line and the needle will move in and out easily.
• If sewing shaggy fabrics place tissue paper between the fabric and the foot to prevent pulling or catching. Tear it off after sewing. Also works well with delicate fabrics.
• After cutting hessian or linen spray with hair spray before sewing to prevent fraying.
• Spraying hair spray on cotton before threading will make it easier to thread.
• Zips – Use transparent tape to hold in place for sewing, remove after sewing.
• Hems – To remove old hemlines when letting down cotton or denim clothes mix 1 cup of hot water with 1/2 teaspoon of vinegar and 1/2 teaspoon of borax. Soak a cloth in the mixture, squeeze out excess water, place on the wrong side of fabric and iron with a hot iron.
• Cutting – Dip scissors in boiling water to make it easier to cut through nylon and delicate fabrics.
• Buttons – After sewing on buttons touch the thread with clear nail polish and they will stay on much longer. Buttons will also stay on longer if you sew each pair of holes separately.
• Fasteners – After sewing one side of a fastener in its place  rub it with chalk and use it to touch the other side of the fabric for an exact mark showing where to sew the other side of fastener.

Blind Hemming - Makes an almost invisible finish by hand or machine. By hand – finish raw edge of hem, the as close to hem as possible, catch a single thread of fabric and carry needle diagonally through hen edge. Do not sew  tightly. Make stitches about 6mm to 9mm apart.

Herringbone - Used to finish hems and facings and to keep edges flat. Work from left to right alternating stitches.

Overcasting -Prevents raw edges fraying. Use slanting evenly spaced hand stitches or machines blind stitch zig-zag.

Running-stitch - Used for easing, gathering, tucking, mending and to secure facings and hems in lined garments. Use a fine needle and small even stitches, weaving needle and thread in and out of fabric several times before pulling through. Use tiny stitches for seams, 6mm stitches for easing and gathering.

Slip-stitch -Used for finishing hems , cuffs, bias bindings, etc. with almost invisible stitches. Bring needle through hem fold, pick up a single thread of fabric. Continue, keeping stitches about 6mm to 9mm apart.

Stay-stitch – Used to hold edges of necklines, hiplines, etc. in shape. Use a line of straight, medium machine-stitching on a single layer of fabric before stitching seams. Stay-stitch about 12mm from seam edge in direction of fabric grain.

Top-stitch – Done to accent seams. It may be done at all stages of the garment. If top-stitching is a feature of the whole garment it may be done as a first step. Many machines have an adjustable edge stitcher attachment to help accurate spacing of top-stitching.

Whipping-stitching – A tiny stitch useful for joining lace or ribbon to a garment or to hold lining to the back neck edge of a coat.

Sewing and making your own clothes or something special for someone you love can be very rewarding, following are a few basic stitches that are helpful to know.

Back-Stitch - A small strong stitch used where machine-stitching is difficult or when sewing in a zip by hand. Small stitches beginning at the back of the previous stitch.

Basting or Tacking - Temporary stitching used to hold pieces of fabric together before sewing permanently. The more time you spend basting or tacking the better fit and finnish your garment will have. Some machines have a tacking stitch that is long and easy to pull out. Use it only on non-slip fabrics otherwise your fabric will be marked by the needle.

Hand-tacking - Use a single thread and a long needle. Knot one end of thread, make long running-stitches and fasten off with a back-stitch.

Diagonal tacking - Used to secure facings, interfacings and linings. Make straight stitches at right angles to the edge of fabric and diagonal stitches will appear.

Slip tacking - Useful for matching seams in stripes and checks and for curved sections. Slip needle through upper fold of fabric then through lower fold.

Hemming - With the hemmer foot of a machine you can stitch narrow hems without tacking or pressing, but hems of good garments are usually finished by hand. Begin with a thread fastened under the hem edge, take stitches diagonally from right to left, through folded edge of hem, picking up a single thread of fabric underneath.

There’s a few more to go that will be covered in the next post.

Enjoy